Jingle Bells at Lake Tahoe

What's Christmas without dashing through the snow in a 'two' horse open sleigh in open sight of Lake Tahoe surrounded by the Sierras. That's the advantage of living merely four hours away from winter wonderland. We can soak in the wonders and then trade the icy winter blues for warm sunshine within hours.

Our dear friends gave us an excuse to visit them at their cabin. The storm had passed by just the day before, leaving behind mounds of powder soft play snow. The kids at the cabin were thrilled about sledding down the run dug out by the daddies. We joined them for a trip to the ice skating rink where the 2 year olds impressed us with their balance and fearlessness.

The next morning was reserved for a jingle bell sleigh ride snuggled in the warmth of blankets. I love the Tahoe area draped in its winter cape when the mountains, pine trees, and cottages are perfectly poised for happy happy holidays.

What's Free: San Francisco

Cities around the world provide a rich canvas of art, history, and culture. Our What's Free series spotlights different cities and shows you how to enjoy these treasures without burning holes in your pockets. We start with our home base, San Francisco.

Free Museum Days

Asian Art Museum - First Tuesday of each month
California Academy of Sciences - First Wednesday of each month
San Francisco Museum of Modern Art (SFMOMA) - First Tuesday of each month
Yerba Buena Center for the Arts - Galleries are free First Tuesday of each month
The de Young Museum - First Tuesday of each month
Legion of Honor - First Tuesday of each month
Conservatory of Flowers - First Tuesday of each month
Exploratorium - First Wednesday of each month
San Francisco Zoo - First Wednesday of each month
Museum of Craft and Folk Art - First Tuesday of each month
Cartoon Art Museum - First Tuesday of each month is "Pay What You Wish Day"
The Chinese Historical Society of America - First Thursday of each month
Museo ItaloAmericano - First Wednesday of each month

Free Museums

Cable Car Museum
Chinese Culture Center
San Francisco Fire Museum
National Maritime Museum
Musee Mecanique
Wells Fargo History Museum

Free Tours

Walking Tours by San Francisco City Guides
Golden Gate Park Walking Tour

Summer Specials

SF Jazz Summer Concerts
Stern Grove Festival
San Francisco Shakespeare Festival
Film Night in the Park 2006
Farmer's Markets

Art Hotel Spotlight

Art hotels are becoming increasingly popular, especially in Europe. They're an opportunity to experience the creative expressions of multiple artists under one roof. At Hotel Puerta America in Madrid, each of the thirteen floors has been transformed by a different artist into a fantasy land. Right from the its own lobby entrance (shown above) to the rooms, each floor takes on its own theme and meaning. If nothing else, I'd certainly put this hotel on my sight-seeing list for Madrid.

Glass of the Maharajas

I've never really been into glass but this exhibition I would love to see. The Corning Museum of Glass in New York brings you Glass of the Maharajas (May 19 - Nov. 30, 2006). The exhibition showcases a little-known chapter of design history when European glass manufacturers fashioned dazzling furniture out of glass for the Indian royalty.

The Museum brochure says that "The very idea that a chair could glitter like a diamond, catch light like a colored gemstone, and still function as seating must have astounded those who first encountered glass furniture in the mid- to late-19th century. Visitors to "Glass of the Maharajahs" will experience that same sense of bedazzlement."

Among the highlights of the exhibition is a unique 11-foot-tall mirrored and intricately faceted glass wall cabinet, on public view in the United States for the first time. Also featured are massive chandeliers, side tables, chairs, a towering candelabrum, and even a crystal and horsehair fly whisk.

Destination Dubai

Dubai is undoubtedly the city of the future. I've been reading here and there about all the new buildings on the rise in this megapolis but only when you list them all out do you realize the sheer scope of these projects. By year 2010, Dubai will be unsurpassed for it's modern architectural wonders. Here is a glimpse.

Buy your own island in The World. There's 300 of them, each named after a country, that collectively form the shape of our world. You can own a piece of the puzzle by dishing out anywhere between US$ 10.8m to $36m. These exclusive islands, accessible only by water or air, can be converted into island resorts, hip communities, theme lands - anything you can dream up!

Burj Dubai will change history and the face of downtown by contributing the world's tallest building. The most exclusive address in the world places Dubai firmly on the tourism map. The current number of 5 million visitors is predicted to reach 10 million by 2007, and an incredible 40 million by 2015. The Burj project also includes the Dubai Mall, largest on earth. Its epic proportions will include an aquarium, fashion arena, and the biggest ever gold souk. Also in the downtown project are residential communities, hotels, and an Old Town that will preserve the Arabic traditions of antique stalls and coffee houses.

The Hydropolis blows any 007 under-water fantasy ever screened. This first-of-its-kind underwater hotel will be located 66 feet below the surface of the Persian Gulf. You can book one of the 220 'ocean view' guest suites towards the end of 2007. The Palms are a set of three man-made islands designed to resemble date palm trees. The fronds of the Palms will house residential projects and a variety of tourist attractions, ranging from spas, diving sites, and theaters.

Dubai will also be ready to host any world class sporting events once its Sports City is completed by the end of 2007. This sprawling, 3 billion square foot complex will offer visitors a staggering variety of athletic venues, from gigantic stadia to state-of-the-art parks for skateboarding, indoor rock climbing, and other activities. Not to mention facilities for polo, car racing, golf, and extreme sports. And despite all this if you're dreaming of complaining about the extreme sun and sand, check out Ski Dubai. Imagine 22,500 square metres covered with real snow all year round and five runs that vary in difficulty, height, and steepness. The longest run is 400 meters with a fall of over 60 meters. Ski or snowboard any time of the year on the world’s first indoor black run or practice your turns on the bunnies.

So you've explored just about the entire world in Dubai, what next. Just when I thought nothing else could blow my mind, I read about Global Spaceport. This $265 million project by Space Adventures has obtained clearance to operate suborbital spaceflights from a spaceport located less than an hour from Dubai.

Faena Hotel + Universe

I cannot seem to take my eyes off the stark white and red colors of this ultra-chic designer hotel. The look is so crisp and vibrant; modern yet classic. Faena Hotel and Universe is situated in one of my favorite cities, Buenos Aires. Designers Faena and Philippe Starck create drama out of the crumbling turn-of-the-century El Porteño building on the Puerto Madero docklands, turning it into a 'temple to pleasure'.

The sophisticated interiors are inspired by early 20th-century transatlantic liners, with a mix of Starck's new designs and antiques picked up at local markets and auctions. The rooms all have views of either the docks or the river. There's a bistro, a cabaret, a spectacular outdoor pool and a gym/spa/hamam with genuine Turkish baths. Priced from $300, the decor itself seems worth every cent.

Don't Get Lost in Translation

The sheer joy of travelling stems from the opportunity to experience a different culture. Yet travellers often forget this core sentiment in a foreign land. Respecting cultural practices and celebrating their uniqueness is not a nice-to-do, it is mandatory. Whether you're travelling on business, pleasure, or relocating to another country, be aware of the local customs and traditions. Check out this cool site, Kwintessential, that delivers insightful snippets on cross cultural differences.

(Source Losses in Translation)

These intercultural fact files from Communicaid are also great pre-travel read. Many countries have strong cultural etiquettes, gestures, and language protocols. It's very cool to learn all these just like it is to learn new phrases in a foreign language. We've had the most fun in our travels living like the locals: renting an apartment, travelling by buses and subways, and experiencing neighborhood eateries. And most of all, respecting and observing the people of that country.

New York + Great Food = Restaurant Week

Hail all epicureans! Here's your chance to savor culinary creations at some of the finest dining rooms in New York. The big apple celebrates its Restaurant Week from July 10-14 and 17-21, 2006. To see a list of restaurants and to make reservations, go to OpenTable.com. Be sure to choose wisely and reserve early since this is a mighty popular event. Enjoy special three-course, prix-fixe menus at $24.07 for lunch (price reflects that the city never sleeps and is always delicious: 24 hours a day, 7 days a week) and $35 for dinner (prices per person not including beverage, tax or gratuity). The restaurant week, held twice a year in January and July, is a great way to experience Zagat stalwarts such as 21 Club, Union Square Cafe, or Gramercy Tavern, that may usually be out of budget.

Ode to Road Trips

'Tis the season to take the scenic route, so hurry up and plan a road trip. While soaring gas prices do not provide much of an impetus, it's still a better alternative to prohibitive airfares. Check out Frommer's for tricks and tips to save on gas. You can stick to tradition by heading to the nearest AAA office or go online to download maps and tour books to navigate any piece of highway in the country. Roadtrip America also helps you plan your road style from meals to suggestions on just about anything to do with your life on wheels.

If the destination is more important to you than the journey, then hop on a plane. One of my favorite reasons to take a road trip is to spend "car" time with my husband or dear family and friends. Just the conversations about everything and nothing, no-one-gets-bored games, or listening to the current favorite song over and over again make for the biggest joys. On my last road trip, I learnt how to whistle with two index fingers in the mouth. Anyway, apart from the lessons, nothing can excite me more than food!

No, I'm not talking about pit stops at Mc Donalds or Applebees. Road trip happy Jane and Michael Stern have spent the last 25 years driving around and they call America "a culinary crazy-quilt of unique dishes beloved by locals but little known to outsiders". They entreat travellers to seek out the local specialties. To read about most memorable local eateries along the back roads and highways, check out roadfood.com. Also highly recommended is their currrent book Two for the Road: Our Love Affair with American Food.

Jamie Jensen of the Road Trip USA fame has put together some cool podcasts to get you swinging behind your wheels. So I urge you to build a relationship with the map this summer and make some discoveries of your own.

Celebrating America's Birthday

I've always loved this holiday. At the peak of summer, it's all about barbecues in the backyard, poolside family parties, and fireworks. If you're feeling more adventurous, head to Philadelphia where it all started. The party's already kicked off here, but the fun continues through July 4 ending in a concert featuring Lionel Richie and Fantasia Barrino, and of course fireworks. If you're looking to join the nation's biggest I-day bash, there's none to beat Boston. The pyrotechnic fireworks extravaganza will be telecast live from the esplanade on CBS. Luckily for us, San Francisco hosts the largest birthday celebration on the west coast at Pier 39. For a truly special time, sail the bay on a dinner and fireworks cruise.

Monterey is hosting it's SummerFest Arts and Wine festival on July 1-2 from 9am-6pm. I love the breathtakingly scenic drive down Highway 1 where you can pick your own stretch of beach to set up a picnic lunch. No trip to Monterey is complete without heading over to idyllic Carmel with its charming village atmosphere and eclectic boutiques. It's a perfect place to gawk at Ferraris and Lamborginis... and designer puppies! If you're staying up in San Francisco this weekend, do not miss the legendary Fillmore Jazz Festival on July 1-2 from 10am to 6pm. Also, the San Francisco Opera is hosting it's free concert at Dolores park on July 1 @ 2pm. But if opera's not your scene, then get the groove on at Stern Grove Festival on July 2 @ 2pm.

Let's celebrate America's birthday. Happy 4th of July!!!

Go Berry Picking

It's summer! Time to don a wide brimmed hat, hum your favorite tune, and stroll through fields of olallieberries. Bring a wine and cheese picnic with you, and maybe some greens to toss up a fresh strawberry salad. Check with farms in your area for local harvest schedules. This is usually the perfect time to pick strawberries, raspberries, blueberries, and olallieberries. Oh, and Kiwis too. Pick berries that are ripe and refrigerate them as soon as you can.

Phipp's Farm, in Half Moon Bay, is one of our favorites for picking Olallies and Strawberries. I think we tuck away as many in our tummy as we gather in our baskets. At home, we cool off by topping large scoops of ice cream with larger scoops of berries or making strawberry shortcakes. If you're a popsicle lover, then try making these mouth watering icepops. For more berry fun, make jams and pies. Canned preserves also make delightful hostess gifts for summer barbecues. If you're unable to go to a farm, then make a trip to your local farmer's market to enjoy freshly picked produce.

And no talk of fruits or summer can be complete without mentioning the king of all fruits: Mango! Check out these amazing mango creations. Growing up in India, summer days were punctuated with multiple servings of fresh mango, mango lassi, and mango panna (green mango juice). We had three mango trees in our backyard that had to be constantly guarded against urchins on summer vacation. My granny would cut green mangoes to make fresh pickle while I waited impatiently to lick the left-over sauce. Nagesh and I rediscovered mango heaven last year in Brazil and Thailand, duly seasoned with salt and red cayenne pepper!

Outdoors With Kids!

Last weekend, we went camping at Memorial Park with six kids! Age range: 18 months to 8 years. How fabulous that the parents are already introducing their tots to the joys of nature. Nestled amid tall coastal redwoods, our campsite made for a wonderful playground filled with wonders for the little ones. Of course they all wanted to "climb" the redwoods and find wood chips for the fire. And then they were busy toasting marshmallows for dinner. No one wanted to retire at the usual bedtime, so we all cuddled around the campfire with blankies. The morning was filled with stories around the breakfast table, followed by a swim in the watering hole, and a visit from mister banana slug. What fun!


A couple of years ago, we took our 10 year old nieces and nephew camping at Humboldt State Park in the sierras. We asked them to write a story or bring a favorite book they could share with us. That was such a great idea as were the stories. What didn't work quite so well was the long three hour ride to the camp grounds. Yeah, the "are we there yet" syndrome put in an unmistakable appearance.

Summer is too short, so pack in all the fun you can with the kids. Most National Parks offer superb Junior Ranger programs. If you can't squeeze in a whole weekend, indulge in some local hiking. For trail maps, goodies, and your own "family passport" sign up with the REI Passport to Adventure program. And you can also enroll the young ones in the WebRanger program, since we all know how much they love hangin' out on the internet.

Yosemite National Park 06.2006

We just returned from a fabulous trip to Yosemite National Park with our dear friends Anu and Mona. I just love road trips during the summer. And camping. The long evenings and bright sun call for all kinds of outdoor celebration. What a perfect spot we picked!

We set off on Friday afternoon, hitting only the usual patches of traffic. A couple of pit stops later, we wound our way into Stanislaus National forest before entering Yosemite national park. John Muir called Yosemite "the grandest of all special temples of Nature." It's blown me away every time. Picture this cameo appearance: Half Dome, framed squarely amidst competing towers of granite, stands blushing in the amber pink of dusk. With a wide smile and swelling hearts we promised to make it to its top the next day. Before long we chanced upon hordes of cars pulled over to the side and eager cameras trying to capture a preoccupied bear. We were more busy wondering how that lady in white capris with 6-inch leopard print sandals was planning to handle the rough terrain of the valley. Come to think of it, she was probably headed to the Ahwanee!


It was dark by the time we checked into our tent cabin at Curry Village. Is it possible to find one near the parking, toilets, and lockers? We didn't do so badly, except maybe in the parking department. During dinner, we stared temptingly at the martinis we couldn't even smell if we ever wanted to wake up at 4am. So with that goal we hit the sacks early. Sleep might have paid us all a visit had Anu's sack, er mattress, not scared the begeezes out of it with all that racket. All night long. Anyway, that resulted in four wide-eyed but hella sleepy peeps getting on the Happy Isles trail by 6am.

Hiking Up To Half Dome

We lost Anu and Mona during the first half hour of the hike. Nagulu was at his grumpy best huffing in sheer disbelief at the 5 litres of liquid I had forced him to carry. That irritation dissipated somewhat with each new surprise along the John Muir trail and completely when every drop was gratefully sucked up along the way. Oh yeah, we ended up not taking the Mist trail, quite by mistake. John Muir trail is two miles longer but a lot easier on the knees. While we squarely missed the waterfall soak, we still got magnificent views of the gushing Vernal and Nevada falls. The hike is both long and arduous. And the reward after some four hours of dedication is a sheer mountain paved with tall rocky steps and a gain in elevation of about 1000 ft. Welcome to Quarter Dome!

Half Dome looks utterly magnificent from its base. The people scaling the rock are mere specks clinging onto those cables. If it looks daunting from anywhere else, from this point it looks like madness to even be attempting the summit. But then the saving grace to Quarter dome is that it makes you feel like things couldn't be tougher. That's where you're wrong. The cables are brutal.

Now it would be different for descendants of Spiderman. Webbed hands and feet would really come in handy here. Hauling yourself up Half Dome has become even more trying due to the crowds on the cable. I kid you not. There are people trying to go up and down, both from the inside and (gulp!) outside. That's a lot of stuntmanship and it's not very funny when you're hot and tired and dizzy. While the cables seem strong, the wooden stepping planks are missing from several spots which puts pressure on the stakes that come loose every once in a while. All this coupled with almost an hour on the cables with your foot twisted at the weirdest angles and your shoulders threatening to dislocate, makes reaching the top the biggest frosting on the cake of life. It is sweet!



Post complete collapse, short nap, and a delicious pickle parantha lunch, we soaked in the breathtaking views of the valley and surrounding snow capped sierras. Amazingly enough the half dome still sported snow in patches, enough to go snowballing. We were on top of the world!


Only the long way home still lay ahead of us. That and the descent down the cables. We're not afraid of heights, so the view was absolutely thrilling. So was clinging to the cables and praying for a better fate than the odd water bottles rolling towards their doom.




The next four hours of downhill trek were spent marvelling at how much climbing we had accomplished that morning. And dreaming about the martinis and pizzas that awaited us at Curry Village. This time we took the stunning Mist trail down to the valley. The waterfalls are the gushing life of the valley, especially when they tumble forth with so much energy. The mist from the Vernal falls soaked us to the skin and refreshed our spirits. Rainbows danced everywhere. We could just reach out and touch them. Mona later said that she had been touched by a rainbow too. It's all about those fleeting moments of magic, isn't it?

The last stretch of road between the trailhead back to Curry Village is the farthest thing from magic. Every step is hell. But taking off those hiking shoes and freeing your toes after 12 hours is heaven. Sugar and spice. We had lived yet another delicious day!

This Picnic Rocks

The party was just beginning. After a hot shower (where someone dropped a 5lb bottle of shampoo on my left foot!), we were ready for cocktails and pizza. The sole restaurant at Curry Village was rocking. We were excited to be reunited with our friends who had been on a shorter hike that day. Anu and Mona were making us so jealous with their talk of sumptuous afternoon naps. I was craving a drink by now only I didn't have an ID to prove that I was drinking age. Sugar and spice. Didn't stop me from lapping up sips from everyone else's drinks. And the pizza was divine (anything would've tasted divine right now). Later, after about an hour of Texas Hold 'Em poker, we collapsed into a heap of sleep.

Turns out we all love breakfasts. Our first couple of waking hours on Sunday morning were spent wallowing at the breakfast buffet. Promptly after which we found a huge rock to re-establish our card game. After checking out, we payed tribute to the glory of life at the Ahwanee, bought supplies for a mini-picnic, and drove out to our chosen spot: Glacier Point. Spectacular is the word. The entire Yosemite valley bloomed in front of us on this gorgeous day. We had never seen Half Dome from this perspective. And boy were we excited to see the entire half dome hiking trail (see 3rd picture) complete with its water falls and the forests. We had truly covered a lot of ground.

We soaked in the glory of nature with drinks, munchies, and more poker until it was no longer safe to let the very drunk Mona remain perched on those rocks. Then we lost a card to the wind and Anu went chasing after it with a cliffhanger stunt. It was time to pack up. We returned home with all the mouth-watering memories pickled and preserved forever.

Settling Back In

We've been back more than six months now, long enough to have found an apartment, a job, and new adventures. But not long enough to have forgotten the taste of languid afternoons at the Copacabana or the delicious Subway sandwiches in St. Petersburgh (believe it or not!). Sitting out on the patio of our resort-like lagoon-side apartment in California, we often lovingly retrace our travels step-by-step, meal-by-meal, memory-by-memory.

Getting back into our easily forgotten rhythm wasn't as challenging as we may have feared, if we ever did fear anything! Our possessions, impatiently waiting to be bailed out of the super-crammed storage, stretched out gratefully in our new apartment. Nagesh went back to his old job (after the "sabbatical") while I set about preserving memories from our trip for posterity (read "creating scrapbooks"). That pickling wasn't going to last forever. Three scrapbooks and six months of frustrating job hunts later, I finally landed a job I truly enjoy.

But here comes the summer, teasing us with its bright sunshine face and long langorous days. Last Sunday was almost as hot as Cambodia this same time last year. Which reminds me that we still have not mailed Kinal his business cards. Hope the poor guy's still in business.

Anyway, all this is to only say that our nearly-forgotten blog is getting a facelift. Not because life is a journey every day and all that good stuff, which may be true, but because we want you all to travel with us... always.

Nathan turns TWO!

He's been around the sun twice! Nathan, our 'little mini star', is becoming a big boy. And he's currently obsessed with trucks, cars, tractors, and just about anything on wheels. Last week he told 'Nangesh' he wanted a bull dozer for his happy b'day.

The birthday morning looks sunny and gorgeous after a long spate of rains. Nathan sports khaki overalls with a bright orange tee but refuses to keep his hard hat on. It's a construction b'day party and he can't wait for Nagesh to get his ditch digger running.

The table outside is lined with his fleet of tractors and bull dozers. Ammamma has made him a book with pictures of Indian cars. Divya akka has baked him a bright red buttery fire truck cake. Caution tapes flutter brightly in the wind. The guests have a great time, especially the tiny ones as they smack the pinata with all their might. Lilian, the delicate, smashes it to bits. Arusha and Tanvi waste no time gathering the scattered candies. The tiny tots all decorate their hard hats with stickers and colored markers.

Nathan is now stuck to his new battery operated life size racing car. Daddy has to make battery recharging excuses to get him unstuck. Nathan is thrilled with all his new presents but most of all with all his little friends and cousins.

We hope for all the joys in the world for our favorite little boy. Happy Birthday Nathan!

Anoushka is ONE!

Our chhutki pie is ONE!!! She celebrated her real birthday in India with her grandparents in Hyderabad and Trivandrum. But it's time for the bay area bash.

Anoushka looks like a doll in her ornate pomegranate lehnga choli. Mommy's decked her out in matching jewellery complete with tinkling bangles and anklets. My favorite is the tiny little ring on her stubby little finger. She behaves like a doll too; unruffled after hours of mingling. She's just about learning to walk, so she teteers uncertainly every time anyone puts her down.

The hall is blooming with pink and white balloons. The lunch buffet is delicious. Soon it's time to blow out the solitary candle on the Winnie-the-Pooh cake. HAPPY BIRTHDAY precious! We wish you only the best in life. Watching you grow is pure magic and we're delighted to be a part of this journey. Chitta and Mama love you!