Wake up this morning was at 5am (groan). Percy’s orders and Elmer was banging our door down on the dot. Nights in the Amazon are absolutely still and humid. Sleep arrived very reluctantly and was only making itself comfortable towards the coolness of dawn when Elmer’s banging kicked it out rudely.
By 6am we were on the boat with our goody bags filled with banana chips courtesy of the lodge. The sun was feeling a little lazy this morning, which made it relatively less hot for the first few hours of our trek through the impenetrable forest. Besides Elmer, we were in the excellent company of our Norwegian friends. This morning, we discovered several types of palm trees used for building roofs of houses and lodges - and decorative skirts for tourists. While Kavita sported her Amazonian skirt, the guys took bets on how long it would last.
Elmer, who was ingenious around these parts, broke off a long piece of wood and teased it into a hole in the ground. A giant black tarantula, also disturbed out of its peaceful slumber, crawled out in a bad mood. We got away as soon as we could. It’s amazing to think how Elmer knows every nook and cranny of the forest. The birds had begun to herald another busy day in the jungle by their loud cawing. Macaws, toucans, parrots, pelicans were all making a humbug in the highest reaches of the trees. A rare sloth, true to its name, lay lazing on a high branch somewhere.
Two at a time commanded Elmer. Our next destination was a tree house 60 feet above ground. The spiral staircase around the fig tree was tight and rickety. At the very top, the steps got narrower and tougher to maneuver with each cracking stair threatening to cave under us. The platform on top was squarely set amidst the highest treetops offering a panoramic 360-degree view.
Our binocular sweep suddenly spotted fuzzy mounds attached to tree branches not unlike the rare sloth we’d spotted earlier. We could clearly distinguish the shape of their bodies. Excited, we waited another ten minutes, watched a few vultures and toucans up close before making our way down. "Elmer we spotted two sloths!" we shouted. Elmer was full of disbelief and ready to bolt up the tree to challenge our find. Nagesh panted up after him for the second time only to hear him laugh and shout "termite mounds’. So much for getting up there twice!
Our next leg was to navigate the Amazonian backwaters and swamps. We clambered onto a canoe that was magically waiting for us at the end of our path. Armed with one large stick and an oar, Elmer navigated us around the hairpin water bends. Nagesh and the Norwegians decided to pitch in some muscle power as well. But the Norwegians were disappointed about not encountering any anacondas. Elmer says they’re easier to spot during the dry season when the waters are shallow. But we did spot lots of caimans as close as three feet away. Kavita’s favorites were the shy turtles that like to hang out on rocks and jump in as soon as they suspect visitors.
After an hour, we were back to hiking a short section of the forest after which another canoe awaited us, this time with enough paddles for everyone. Initially, we were all excited to row through the lush green aquatic vegetation, but after an hour in the hot sun, our energies began to flag. The ubiquitous green glowed oppressively in the harsh sun and the canoe seemed to drift in slow motion. After what seemed like an eon, we made it back to terra firma. On our hike back, we were rewarded by glimpses of a frolicking river otter making loud splashing sounds, cavorting in and out of the river.
Percy greeted us at the resort and instructed us to be ready for a visit to a local jungle family after lunch. Talk about taking a break! This afternoon we were treated to a special lunch: a rice dish delicately spiced and steamed in a banana leaf. As we opened our individual leaf bundles, the aroma of garlic, ginger, and nutmeg filled the air for us to relish every bite.
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