Sunday, May 15, 2005

Phuket, Thailand

The good news is that Phuket is pretty much all cleaned up after the boxing day Tsunami disaster of last year. The bad news is that business is not anywhere near picking up and the people have taken a far greater economic beating in its wake. This is low tourist season in Phuket, but business has apparently never ever been this slow. So claims a grocery shop owner whose shop is located right next to our hotel. But we’re not complaining. For an unthinkably low price, our room comes with a private outdoor jacuzzi. However, huge bars along the beachside streets yawn with boredom and locals are keen on spreading the word that Phuket is ready for tourists again.

But here we are, determined to feed ourselves to the fury of the waves one way or the other. Thailand has long been a favorite with Hollywood movie makers which also guarantees that tourists such as ourselves will set sail on pilgrimages to James Bond (Man With a Golden Gun) and Leonardo Di Caprio (The Beach) islands in search of `paradise'. The pilgrims are gathered from their respective hotels in the morning and transported by a van to the pier. We’re really excited about setting sail for the legendary Koh Phi Phi islands only until our guide welcomes us with, "Today will be windy and cloudy, anyone want sea-sickness pills?"

Our speedboat has not quite made it past the harbor that the water starts unveiling her alter ego. Our perky vessel thrashes against the rough sea with loud crashes. The passengers wear a look of utter fright, or at least surprise, while the guides seem to be amused at our discomfort. An hour into the joyride, the rain comes thundering down to drench us every inch. If a regular stormy day at sea can feel so overwhelming, imagine the sheer power unleashed on an aberrant day. We cannot help but think of the cruel havoc wrought on Phuket a few months ago.


Our agitation is somewhat pacified when the boat enters a lagoon. Guarded by a gateway of cliffs, the calmness of this natural emerald pool is all too surreal. This is the magic spot where Leonardo cavorted around in The Beach. After a quick dip in the holy waters, we’re on our way to the Phi Phi islands. The snorkeling is excellent and believe it or not, the fishes love bananas. We call them monkey fishes when schools of them come rushing in to attack bananas thrown overboard by the guides. After lunch, we stop at a secluded beach with pristine sands and aquamarine waters. The fishes here are fond of bread and swim up right up to the shore for snacks. For the next couple of hours we pretend that we’ve been deserted on that tiny island and that life is only about the sand, the waves, and the beach loungers.

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