We heave ourselves over the last few steps on the Inca trail. They’re no less exhausting than the countless ones we’ve scaled but this time things are different. We’re almost at Intipunku, the sun gate that promises us the first view of Machu Picchu (or old moutain). As we applaud each other for making it to the summit, our glee turns to disappointment. Machu Picchu lies hidden behind a thick low-lying cloud cover. We wait for a while before continuing on the trail, supposedly veering towards the fabled city. And then, by what Nagesh claims to be the power of a promised sacrifice to the Inca gods (let's not ask what he promised in sacrifice), the clouds turn to ether. A most dramatic clearing act uncovers the secret city of the Incas. Machu Picchu quite simply leaves us spellbound!
The hike up the inca trail is worth every step in gold. Although the sheer beauty of the Urubamba valley more than makes up for the near-death exhaustion at some points, the crown prize just obliterates all previous pains and pleasures. This must also be the reason why we decided to scale Huayna Picchu (or new mountain) and it's near vertical steps after all this hiking. Spurred by the promise of a greater view of Machu Picchu, the steep climb up the slippery steps of this sheer cliff was rewarded by absolutely breathtaking views. Albeit our knees did not share in the excitement one bit.
The Incas built Machu Picchu to protect themselves from Spanish invaders. This inaccessible site is nestled between tall lush green mountains in a valley pierced by the Urubamba river. Because its layout seeks to maximize the sun’s energy, Machu Picchu is squarely situated between the arcs of the winter and summer solstice points of the sun. This ensures that the sun shines all day on all the buildings in the city.
Despite it’s architectural brilliance, the Incas were wiped out, perhaps due to the very isolation that protected them from their invaders. The lost city was not unearthed until the early 20th century when Hiram Bingham found it buried under a forest. According to our tour guide, he was a "thief" who transported all his Inca finds (including some 106 mummies) outside Peru. Thief or not, he did uncover one of the greatest historical wonders of all time.
What happened to the Incas? How were they wiped out? How did they build this city? What was life like in Machu Picchu? There are as many theories on all these natural questions as the number of guides offering interpretations. And the answers are as varied and confusing as the countless labrynths inside the surviving walls. There are just no clear or definitive answers. As Nagesh says, this is where the Egyptians prove to be a far superior race that documented every detail of their lives through hieroglyphics.
And that is why it becomes important that we document our travels through this blog so posterity will never have a doubt about our trip to Machu Picchu in early April of the year 2005.
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