Torres del Paine National Park, Chile

Known as the mecca for trekkers, Torres is the crown jewel of our trip. This park is worth its distance in gold.

Located in the heart of Chilean Patagonia, access to this park is extremely limited. A three hour bumpy bus ride later, we were greeted by herds of Guanacos at the park entrance. After paying the hefty entrance fees, we were dropped off at the transfer point from where a shuttle would ferry us to the Las Torres base camp.

Because the park was still partially closed due to the fires, the shuttles were taking an alternate route. Trekkers in Torres can choose to do a shorter four day ¨W´´ or a longer seven day Circuit hike (connecting the two ends of the ¨W´´ in a loop). When in America, we aimed for the Circuit. By the time we made it to the park, it was no longer an option. And we ended up doing an even shorter version of the ¨W´´. The last portion of the ¨W´´ is a hike that takes you up to Glacier Grey. Since we´d already dabbled in our share of glaciers, we decided to focus on the Torres (towers) and Cuernos (horns) of Paine. Our three days were split across the two refugios that provided closest access to both of these.

The park bus transfer point started filling up with backpackers from around the world. We were guaging and comparing the weights of all backpacks and assessing each one´s contents during the wait. The lighter ones were surely not carrying food. And just how were those people planning to carry tents, utensils, and all that load? There were all sorts of people with all kinds of luggage. The park bus came around with a special baggage carrier in tow. All the backpacks were stowed away and more money was collected from those who had no reservations at the refugios. The only negative about this park is how much they charge at the pretext of remoteness. We forgot about all this money business as soon as we caught our first glimpse of the Torres. Only partially though. The sky looked cloudy with only some parts of the towers in view. Imposing masses of three gigantic rocks presiding over the landscape. Very rugged and unforgiving. This was nature´s own sculpture in the middle of nowhere.

We were about to climb up and get a full view. Our first day´s itininerary involved a relentless upward climb for 6 hours. Refugio Chileno was four hours away from Torres base camp where the park shuttle deposited us with our backpacks. Right before we started the hike at 10am, we ran into an Irish couple who had boarded in the same b&b in Ushuaia. They were just finishing their five day stint and looked exhausted beyond words. They´d been camping all along and had become worshippers of the park. We waved them goodbye, strapped on the bags, and got on our way.

It was a gorgeous balmy day with light sun and winds. Only the caprices of the weather in Torres are worse than Donald Trump´s boardroom gimmicks. Not that we were unprepared, having heard all sorts of horror stories. It wasn´t looking bad at all except that the wind was against us. As usual there were no marked trails or signs anywhere.

Two hours into the hike and the weather Gods started sprinkling us with a light drizzle. Nagesh was wearing his parka but Kavita didn´t really care to stop and fish hers out. Ten minutes later, we were stopped on the side drenched from head to toe struggling to pull out our parkas and ponchos. The winds were lashing against us mercilessly. All the elements were in their ugliest moods and this was just the beginning. Layered up with ponchos that covered our backpacks, we abandoned all hopes of a picnic lunch in the picturesque settings. All we could see through the rain curtain was a grey cover. The hike was getting steeper and the trails we regurgitating slush. We started singing Om Jai Jagdish Hare at the top of our lungs followed by Hum Honge Kamiyab (we shall be successful one day). The Gods heard us alright! We could finally see the refugio at a distance. A log cabin nestled between a valley on the banks of a gushing river - but we were too tired to appreciate any of that.

We stumbled wet and cold into a refugio packed like sardines. Shoes and backpacks had to be left on the patio where there was no place to even stand. The main doors opened into a sitting area with long wooden tables and chairs. Not one chair to be found. We checked in and were shown to our dorm room with eight bunk beds. Kavita refused to sleep on anything higher than the first bunk bed.

We took off our wet jackets and headed to the lunch room. Food never tasted better and the warmth was so welcome. People were huddled around the wood burning furnaces. The smell of damp clothes and socks hung thick in the air and the furnaces were being used to dry everything.

We just sat there and waited for the rains to abate to make our way up to the towers. It wasn´t meant to be. The rains kept coming down harder and harder. A few brave souls decided to charge ahead only to return disappointed. The towers had gone into hiding with rain turning to snow at the heights.

We were jinxed but strangely not upset. It was like a bonus day to relax at this cozy lodge and write our blog. In a few hours we knew everyone in the refugio including the campers sheltered in there. Nagesh and I spent hours commenting on everyone. During dinner, we met Guido, our dutch friend who offered us a game of dice for dessert. Soon we had gathered an eclectic mix of campers at our table shouting over the exciting rounds of The Mexican. We hadn´t realized how many games could be invented with a bunch of dice and they´re so portable.

People shouted promises to wake up at 3am and head up for a sunrise view. Nagesh and I shook our heads and decided to take things as they come. We were having a great time as it was. Quiet hours commenced at10pm and we cuddled happily into our sleeping bags. Except, somewhere in the middle of the night Nagesh´s bed turned out broken and he snuggled in with Kavita. Howz that for an excuse!