Friday, February 25, 2005
Ushuaia, Tierra Del Fuego, Argentina
Did we claim that buses were going to be our travel lifeline in Patagonia? Well never mind all that after that 12 hour bus ride from Punta Arenas through hours of barren nothingness. Not like we were really expecting much at this end of the world but let´s just say it wasn´t too exciting. The highlight of our journey was the checkpoint at the Chilean border before we crossed over into Argentina. The immigration officers got a real kick out of our Indian passports. The guy at the counter showed off our passports to all his colleagues and excitedly claimed that we were from India. Does that make us pioneers... first desis to ever cross the austral border into Tierra del Fuego? That made up for the rest of the butt-numbing, bumpy ride into Ushuaia. Not to mention the wind that was threatening to blow us away every time we took a pit stop.
¨Relax, you´re at the end of the world¨ proclaimed the punch line of our restaurant. Exactly what we were doing on this rainy evening at this southernmost port off the Beagle channels. Especially now that we had a great place to stay. After getting off the bus, we trekked around town and knocked at a few family-owned b&bs to find them all full. For all its remoteness, this was proving to be a mighty popular town! Big mamma at one of the b&bs directed us to the tourist information center for help finding an accommodation.
What´s that long line at the tourist info place all about? Oh, it´s those tourists wanting to get their passports stamped with ´congratulations you´ve reached the end of the world´ and receive a certificate of achievement. There were two suckers heading up that line - Nagesh and Kavita - of course. Umm, we´re here to find a place to stay, remember? Well, first things first.
Argentinians are just the most friendliest and helpful souls ever. The lady at the tourist info office called around a bunch of places in our budget till she found us a b&b. Our home here is an obnoxiously green structure with the most gorgeous views from our shocking blue bedroom. Our hosts, the Nahuels, have been more than gracious. The señora can´t stop chattering during breakfast to update us on all the current events.
Tierra del Fuego national park is on our itinerary for the day. Tomorrow we sail the Beagle channel to see a Penguin colony and visit an Argentinian Estancia (ranch). More on those trips later. Need to grab dinner now. Oh, by the way, the food here is seriously inexpensive - and delicious, even for Kavita.
For those who´re holding their breath on what´s going on with Torres del Paine, we´re still on our way but not until next week. In the meanwhile comes a detour to Los Glaciares national park near El Calafate, Argentina.
We gotta tell you one last bathroom detail before we say hasta mañana. Guess what? all the used TP needs to be trashed OUTSIDE the potty. The drainage system cannot handle flushing it down. We could make a killing out of marketing diaper genies as Toilet Paper genies in this part of the world. Any VCs out there dying to fund our brilliant ¨drainwave¨?
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3 comments:
So glad to hear that you guys are doing well. Penguins are one of my favorites! Happy Treking!
we think diaperchamp rules as it is compatible with generic trash bags ;)
so how do you like them glaciers? and them penguins?
the duvvuris
I'm just curious...how did you find out that the TP needs to be discarded outside ???
I say, chaps, nothing cleans like a dibba of paani.
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